Summary
Shell parts for an N64 cartridge. Modified from original with M2 and M3 machine hardware-- nuts insert into front piece-- and wider bottom rear notches for region compatibility.
License
N64 cartridge shell redux
by jmsaltzman is licensed under the Creative Commons - Public Domain Dedication license.
Summary
Relive those nostalgic years, when you dropped a small fortune into Arcade cabinets like Donkey Kong. I have fond memories of retro classics like this and I wanted to celebrate that with this wall-mounted time capsule.
If you have an AMS you can print this in color. If not, you can print it in a single color and add hand-painted details. The included 3MF file has multiple plates combined. Each plate is grouped into similar items & colors. No single plate requires more than 4 colors.
Each character and component was hand-drawn in Fusion360 and colorized in OrcaSlicer. A screenshot of the colors I used is included.
Print at Standard settings and standard fill.
If printed at 100% scaling the project will be approx. 23" tall by 17.5" wide. Plexiglass sheet is 26" x 21". You can scale the entire project to get your desired result & size.
The printed pieces are attached to a sheet of plexi-glass with E6000 multi-purpose adhesive. Adhesive was applied to parts sparingly with a toothpick. If you want to add a little more excitement to the design I also include a background image. It is attached as a high resolution PDF. Once adhesive is dry you can mount in a custom picture frame.
Attributions to the artist of the city skyline background image are as follows: "Designed by pikisuperstar / Freepik".
If you would like to fund my PLA consumption habit, I accept tips!
This project was ultimately compiled and sliced with Orca Slicer version 1.9.0.
If you have problems opening the 3MF file, I recommend trying to open it with Orca Slicer. It is an awesome application that supports tons of 3D printers out-of-the-box.
If you do not want to install Orca Slicer, a portable version is available, which can be run without installing.
I hope you enjoy my work.
Print Settings
Printer brand:
Bambulabs
Printer:
Bambu P1S
Rafts:
No
Supports:
No
Resolution:
Standard
Infill:
Standard
Filament brand:
Polymaker Matte (PolyTerra Line)
Filament color:
Various Colors - Army Brown, Charcoal Black, Lava Red, Pastel Peach, Sunrise Orange, Cotton White, Wood Brown, Saphire Blue
Filament material:
PLA Matte
Notes:
Printed with 0.4 nozzle.
Printed with Standard 0.20 Settings and Standard In-Fill.
Take measurements and use painters tape to mock-up play field before using adhesive. You only get one chance if using adhesive with plexiglass.
Summary
PlayStation 5 controller and headset stand.
printed as separate parts and then fit tightly together/ glue can be used but may not be required depending on your printers settings.
Print Settings
Printer brand:
Bambulabs
Printer:
Bambu P1S
Rafts:
No
Supports:
Yes
Resolution:
0.2
Infill:
15
Filament brand:
any
Filament color:
white/ black
Filament material:
pla
Summary
This is the single joycon controller grip. It has more room and a universal design. It accepts both of the controllers (left and right), and they fit pretty well. You can wrap some blue tape around the top knob to make the fit tighter. It also has room for the straps, therefore you can enjoy the nice shoulder buttons on the strap.
The supports are kind of insane on this, but once you remove them and sand the bottom down, the grip feels good. There shouldn't be any sanding needed for the area where the joycon goes since it's the top of the print.
Enjoy!
Print Settings
Printer brand:
Wanhao
Printer:
Wanhao Duplicator i3 V2
Rafts:
No
Supports:
Yes
Resolution:
.2mm
Infill:
20%
I created the Vampire Lord for the Skyrim DLC: Dawnguard. I decided to take the zbrush model I made for it and turn it into this bust for my own personal use. I was however given permision to share it with you guys for anyone that may be a Skyrim fan or just wants a cool looking creature in general. Vampire Lord is property of Bethesda Games Studios. Feel free to print and enjoy this model but please do not alter it or try to sell it in any way, it is illegal and they will find out, trust me.
Other than that Print Away! If you enjoy this model feel free to drop by my page and say hi, as well as see some other stuff I am working on. Any questions/feedback welcome :)
http://www.facebook.com/DennisMejillones
Video of it being printed
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wZCjIyomjAQ
Instructions
This Thing was printed in PLA. It is composed of two models, the main bust and some small horns that are printed seperately. I have supplied some images with some colors that show you what to remove and where to add the horns. The red tinted is support structures to remove and the green are where the horns go. It was sliced with KisSlicer here are the settings:
Skin Thickness: 0.6
loops:2
Extrusion Width: 0.4
Infill Extrusion Width: 0.4
Layer Thickness: 0.04
Temp: 1st layer-216, 2nd Layer-180 Fan on at all times and if possible a large fan cooling the whole part
50% infill
Speed: Perimiter-20, Solid Infill-50, Sparse-70
Summary
I am making this for a possible upcoming Super Smash Bros. Tournament. I just got a 3D printer and thought I would try uploading something I created!
I oriented the files in an optimal position for printing but you may have to play around with the orientation depending on the printer. For best results print at least two pole pieces to make the trophy taller
Each part is scale relative to one another, but depending on your printer you may have to adjust print size.
Instructions
I sketched the "N" up in CREO Parametric along with the other components
Summary
Video Game Cartridge Rack
A collection of stackable Cartridge Racks for various video game consoles.
My design goal was to allow any number of racks to be stacked while minimizing plastic use.
Games supported:
NES
SNES
N64
Game Boy
Game Boy Advance
Atari 2600 / Atari 7800 / Colecovision
Vectrex
Printing and Assembly Notes
Instructions
print multiple 'rack' objects
glue the stack of racks together
cap off the stack with a single 'top' object
Summary
This is a solid, non functional, replica of an Atari Joystick. It can be made larger or smaller to accommodate printer beds. actual size of an Atari Controller is roughly 3"x3"x4.375". The controller includes surface details like, the joystick, its hinge, the play button, start and select buttons, an on off switch, an indicator light, and a small length of the power cable.
Instructions
when printing this item be sure not to have your printer use too many supports. They often meld to the sides of the controller and cause surface damage when trying to remove them. An additional note is to be sure your printer maintains pressure and heat. As you can see on my larger print as it goes up the joystick it loses pressure and becomes spotty.
Summary
Here are Super Nintendo video game wall hangers, designed to connect straight or staggered, extendable to as many games as your wall will support. Games can be snapped out easily for playing. All parts print without support structures.
Use the plank pieces to connect the hangers together. Glue with "Loctite Vinyl, Fabric & Plastic Flexible Adhesive" available at Home Depot or your adhesive of choice.
Summary
It's the space craft from the Star Fox video games.
Prints in several pieces requiring NO SUPPORTS! Just glue them together.
Original design by: Nintendo
3D Printer Friendly design by: Classy Goat
Repaired front by: deckar01
Instructions
You will need super glue (or preferably epoxy resin)! Epoxy resin fills gaps and doesn't rely on the bonding properties of the material.
Print Settings
Printer brand:
Creality
Printer:
Ender 3
Rafts:
No
Supports:
No
Resolution:
0.16
Infill:
10
Filament brand:
Hatchbox
Filament color:
Blue, Green, Copper, Silver
Filament material:
PLA
Notes:
BEFORE PRINTING: "B1" and "B2" were updated 2/8/2023 because I had uploaded the wrong versions, so please redownload those if you had already downloaded them. For makers with high-precision printers, "B#-tighter-dovetail" files have been added as of 3/6/2023 and have a dovetail tolerance of 0.005" as opposed to the original 0.015".
Print 1x:
Silver "B1" through "B4-6", each standing upright on an angled end.
Silver "B7" through "B9", each standing upright on an angled end (note that "B7" looks a lot like "B4-6" but is not identical due to a slight curve where it meets "B9").
Blue "H1" and "H2", each with its flat cut-open side on the bed (seriously, no supports!).
"V" with a long flat side on the bed (internal component; color doesn't matter).
Blue "D" standing upright on its wider end (setting -0.2mm Horizontal Expansion recommended for ease of assembly).
Green "X" standing upright (recommend a brim for this part only).
Blue "E" with the pointy part upward.
Print 2x:
Copper "T" with the larger arrow-shaped side on the bed.
Copper "G" with the big flat side on the bed.
Print 5x:
"P" laying flat on the bed (internal component; color doesn't matter).
^ This will result in the 39" sword. To add nine inches to the blade (as shown in my photos) do the following.
Print 2x:
Silver "B4-6" each standing upright on an angled end (note that you must have already printed one of this component, so you will end up with three of them).
Print 2x:
Any color "P" laying flat on the bed (bringing total quantity of these to 7).
Technically, you can add nine inches to the blade over and over by adding more pairs of "B4-6" and "P". However, the blade may break under its own weight at some point. Imaginary bonus points to whoever posts the longest make of this sword.
Post-Printing
Assembly Directions
BEFORE ASSEMBLY: "B1" and "B2" were updated 2/8/2023 because I had uploaded the wrong versions, so please redownload and reprint those if you had already downloaded them. For makers with high-precision printers, "B#-tighter-dovetail" files have been added as of 3/6/2023 and have a dovetail tolerance of 0.005" as opposed to the original 0.015".
1) Stack and join "B1", "B3", "B7", and "B9" in order using "P" components, which press into their slots on the back of "B#" components. If making the longer blade, add one "B4-6" between "B3" and "B7", and join it with another "P". This consitutes the Odd side of the blade.
2) Stack and join "B2", "B4-6", and "B8" in order using "P" components as in step 1. If making the longer blade, add one "B4-6" next to the one already in the stack, and join it with another "P". This constitutes the Even side of the blade.
3) Slide both Even and Odd sides of the blade together. Keep them together with the "P" components. The full blade should now be rigid, aside from the sides sliding along one another.
4) Slide both "T" components into the slots at the bottom of the blade. The wider arrow-shaped side of each should face the bottom of the blade.
5) Hold "H1" and "H2" onto the bottom of the blade so that they fit together. Slide "V" into the hole at the bottom of "H#", and insert it fully. Only a fraction of an inch of component "V" should remain exposed.
6) Attach "G" components. This step is hard to put into words. If you can operate a 3D-printer, you can figure this one out. Call it a fun little challenge.
7) Slide "X" onto "D" and screw "E" onto "D".
8) Screw assembly XDE onto "H#". Be gentle and don't rush. Hold the wide end of "D" (not "E") to avoid breakage. If needed, disassemble and screw "D" in and out of "H#" a few times to smooth-out the threads.
9) Your sword is complete.
Summary
I created this model for my son that plays fighting games such as Super Smash Bothers. He wanted a Nintendo Switch Joy-Con holder/grip that was the same size as the game pad. I've uploaded both one with a Smash Brothers logo and a blank one with just the Joy-Con logos.
Be sure to print with a 0.3mm nozzle or smaller to make sure it slide correctly.
Creation video on YouTube coming soon!
Post-Printing
Clip Bridges
This model has built in bridges on the side of the connector. Clip the bridges with snips to use the connectors.
Summary
Heart container with interchangeable centers for whatever combination you want. Each center piece can hold a 1/4 diameter x 1/8 thick magnet if you wish to hang it on your refrigerator. Inspired by the Zelda video games.
Centers should just pop in and out with little force.
Print Settings
Rafts:
No
Supports:
No
Resolution:
.2-.3
Infill:
10-30
Summary
Flight stick for flight simulator games. Appears as a regular USB joystick on Windows and Mac, thanks to the Arduino Pro Micro inside. I will upload the simple code below.
Joystick position is sensed with two hall effect sensors.
Pitch and Roll axes have independent springs or rubber bands.
Goes together with 3M bolts and nuts. If you want to be fancy, you can print version B or C, which use 7 mm and 17 mm bearings, respectively.
Summary
Been sitting on this for a while, but now it's finally out:
A printable cartridge case for the Vectrex video game console.
The standard "Bottom" model is based on the design of the cartridge case used for the game "Rip Off" (ie. the black case in the images). The "Big Board Pins" version is based on the case of Richard Hutchinson's VecMulti flash cart (PCB shown in the last image). Note the "Rip Off" cartridge does fit in the "Big Board Pins" case.
Summary
Protect your cherished SNES games with our meticulously designed 3D model - an SNES cartridge dust cover. Safeguard against dust and wear while maintaining the authenticity of your collection. Elevate nostalgia and longevity. Elevate your retro gaming experience with this must-have accessory. Preserve the classics!
Similar to my N64 Dust cover, this one fits the Pal version of the SNES cartridge.
Snug fit to ensure it doesn't come off when you don't want it to.
Summary
Undershelf support bracket for the Nintendo Wii U. Needed something solid and this fits the bill. Radius fits well and there are 2 countersinked holes to hold everything together.
Print Settings
Printer:
Monoprice Maker Select V2
Rafts:
Yes
Supports:
No
Infill:
25%
Notes:
First design! Needed something to hold the WiiU in place!